Constantia Valley is the oldest wine producing region in the southern hemisphere: winemaking since 1685. Malu Lambert digs deep into its terroir with two of the valley’s preeminent viticulturists, Craig Harris of Klein Constantia, and Vlok Hanekom of Steenberg.

Constantia, the cradle of South African viticulture, is not only the country’s original wine-producing region – but it was also the first to garner international acclaim with its sweet wines, which were coveted by high society in 18th century Europe.

These days Constantia forms part of one of the most recently delineated wine-growing areas, ‘Cape Town’; which incorporates the wards of Constantia, Noordhoek, Hout Bay, Durbanville and Philadelphia. 

Just 15 minutes from the city centre, the region is fittingly known as ‘Cape Town’s Vineyard’. The entire area was once governor Simon van der Stel’s 17th-century wine farm; now divided into eight estates that sprawl across the southern slopes of Table Mountain. Here, the vineyards are advantageously situated on the east-facing side of the range’s Constantiaberg, where they benefit from the cool sea breezes blowing in from False Bay.

The eight are: Groot Constantia, the country’s oldest wine estate. Klein Constantia, famous for Vin de Constance, one of South Africa’s most fêted wines, along with contemporaries Steenberg Vineyards, Constantia Glen, Buitenverwachting, Eagles’ Nest, Beau Constantia and Silvermist Organic Wine Estate.

“The more things change the more they stay the same,” philosophises Craig Harris of Klein Constantia when asked about any new trends in the vineyards. “We’re always exploring new technologies, but we seem to be returning to older methods, for example we are in the middle of a biochar experiment.” This refers to a type of organic coal used in the vineyard to improve soil health, increase carbon capture, and aid in water management.

Close-by neighbour, Vlok Hanekom of Steenberg employs a variety of tools to monitor weather data and details of vineyard parcels, such as altitude, aspect, solar radiation, and so on.

“When we plant a new vineyard we make sure to keep the soils and natural surroundings intact,” affirms Hanekom. “We are deeply committed to this.” Hanekom says sustainability is at the core of their philosophy and vineyard management techniques include biological methods for pest and disease control.

It’s right to respect such ancient terroir. Constantia boasts some of the oldest vineyard growing soils in the world, estimated to be around 500 to 600 million years-old. “The soils are derived from Table Mountain sandstone and decomposed granite, with the boulders to prove it…” comments Harris. 

“It’s a misconception that sandy soils are terrible for vineyards because of the water holding capacity and low nutrient levels,” refutes Hanekom. “Most vineyards in South Africa actually grow too vigorously and could do with less nutrients, more stress and less vigour to ensure slower ripening and better flavours.”

Wind too is an element that defines this terroir. “There is a massive influence on average temperature thanks to the proximity to the sea in the northwest and southeast, which is also the contributing factor to the strength of the winds we endure,” laments Harris.

Though,” he hastens, “the wind has two faces: during budburst to flowering it can do harm but later in the season it keeps the vines healthy. 

The ward receives approximately 1,000mm of rain per year (more than Sancerre), making irrigation largely unnecessary, and has an average February temperature of 20.6 degrees Celsius – at least 10 degrees cooler than the majority of the surrounding regions.

“It was a particularly wet start to the season and I am encouraged that more of that water seems to be in the soil versus last year when it evaporated due to the relentless southeaster,” says Harris.

He adds that Constantia’s proximity to the sea and mountains contributes to humidity being relatively high and with this comes some disease risk. The other hazards they face he says are more of the primal kind, with baboons actively enjoying the mountainous estates’ bounty.

Sauvignon blanc is the region’s secret weapon. Of the 421 hectares under vine, almost half of this is the noble variety. Long has the potential of Constantia sauvignon blanc been recognised, records show that the grape was planted at Groot Constantia as early as the 1880s.

The growing conditions also act as a safeguard to sauvignon’s aromatic brightness, the grape being vulnerable to heat, it can lose flavour intensity quickly under high temperatures.

“What I love about Klein Constantia is all the slopes,” enthuses Harris. “I often tell people if we had 34-hectares of flat land that it would make very boring wine. The fact that we have 43 blocks on those same hectares is what makes our sauvignon so interesting. We have a patchwork of sauvignon characters between them that give Matt [winemaker, Matthew Day] so many blending components. Combine the different soils on the various slopes and their orientation to the sun with clonal and rootstock differences, and it makes a wonderful symphony of sauvignon.”

Hanekom agrees that Constantia terroir is prime for sauvignon blanc. “Thanks to low sunlight hours and a constant breeze off the ocean it’s like growing grapes in an air-conditioned room. 

“The cooler temperatures result in an increase in concentration and flavour while preserving the acidity and pH of our white varieties.”

Hanekom shares an anecdote of how a Steenberg sauvignon was chosen for the most recent WSET Level 4 Diploma tasting exam. A worldwide endeavour  Hanekom says he felt it was telling that it was in a flight of bankers: aka well-known international wines that everyone is supposed to recognise. “Which means that WSET clearly believes that Constantia sauvignon is now a ’thing’ and everyone needs to know about it.”

In terms of other grape varieties muscat Harris says also clearly does well – the grape Vin de Constance is made from.  “Muscat is the old “staatmaker” that just powers through, it is so hardy and bulletproof it just keeps going.

“Chardonnay is sent to test me,” he says ruefully. “We are working hard to get a decent crop. I am happy to say I am part of a large group of farmers trying our best to figure out chardonnay in the region. 

Hanekom cites sémillon as a grape that flourishes, especially as a complementary partner to sauvignon in the vein of an ageworthy Bordeaux style blend.

It’s not just white wines though, Hanekom says red Bordeaux varieties, such as cabernet sauvignon, malbec and merlot grow well due to the soil type and weather, which allows for water retention and slow ripening. Leaf removal around the bunch areas he adds is crucial for these, allowing for better colour accumulation and ultimately less green flavours. 

“All Constantia wines have good acidities, which makes for ageworthy wines,” punts Hanekom. We as viticulturists just have to make sure to keep some growing tips on the shoots producing carbohydrates, sugars and acids to get well-balanced, ripe fruit.

Looking at the harvest ahead Hanekom is feeling positive: “We had a late, warm autumn, and a late wet winter – we might harvest one week later than usual. The soils are still very saturated with water and the temperatures are mild. This could ease the vineyards into easy and even flowering. In other words, so far so good!”

Harris concurs on the promise of the coming season, and is equally happy with the health of his farm brood: “My pigs remain fertile, the numbers keep getting problematically big. It was a good year for the cows, and my chickens bravely multiply as fast as they can, selflessly supplying food for the caracals.”

Malu Lambert